FOR TRADITIONAL STYLE

Drake’s, London
Despite its Savile Row address, Drake’s is more an outfitter than a tailor. This “maker and haberdasher” prides itself on offering a full-look collection that combines eccentric design with exceptional craftsmanship. The store feels like an artist’s studio, with floor-to-ceiling palms in huge ceramic pots and original artworks covering the walls. Walk through its length and you’ll brush past beautifully made shirts, tailoring, knitwear, shoes and the brand’s famous neckties. Aleks Cvetkovic 9 Savile Row, W1; drakes.com 

Massimo Alba
Massimo Alba

Massimo Alba, Milan
In the hip Brera district of Milan, Massimo Alba’s shop is festooned with the designer’s signature soft corduroy tailoring in rare hues, washed pleat-front grandad shirts and poetically cheeky slogan-print pocket squares, each one like a tiny painting. The store, with parquet floors and monstera-lined walls, is “a box in which I put the things I like,” says Alba. It also houses rare furniture and changing photographic prints, as well as special-edition Tricker’s and Fasciani shoes. Tom Stubbs Via Brera 8, 20121; massimoalba.com

Bryceland’s & Co co-founders Kenji Cheung and Ethan Newton
Bryceland’s & Co co-founders Kenji Cheung and Ethan Newton

Bryceland’s & Co, Tokyo
A first-time visitor here will most probably be struck by the way the store seamlessly fuses different styles. There is high-end tailoring, made-to-measure and fine Italian silk ties, but also tough high-waisted chinos and denim trucker jackets, with hand-sewn shoes alongside baseball caps. Co-founder Ethan Newton manages to make it all work and is often found practising his guitar in the store, while the in-house tailor works on fittings behind the scenes. Simon Crompton 3 Chome-15-4 Jingumae, Shibuya City, 150-0001; brycelandsco.com

Connolly
Connolly

Connolly, London
Isabel Ettedgui has created an exquisite amalgam of art, people, aesthetics, and beautifully designed and made clothes in Connolly, one of London’s leading custodians of luxury. Leather goods are followed by the store’s own compelling collections, as well as exceptional products from cult marques such as Charvet and Blackhorse Lane Ateliers. The interior was designed by architects Gilles & Boissier and features marble accents, oak spiral stairs and an exhibition space. TS 4 Clifford Street, W1; connollyengland.com

Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery
Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery

Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery, London
This offshoot of the famed London tailors was founded to supply men’s trousers in a comprehensive range of shapes and styles, but the haberdashery’s remarkable products extend through knitwear, gloves, hats and scarves. The impeccably informed shop team, which includes Audie Charles and owner Anda Rowland, help nurture a relaxed vibe within the plush interior, where a mix of London characters and luminaries can often be found chatting on the expansive sofas. TS 17 Clifford Street, W1; anderson-sheppard.co.uk

Rocky Mountain vest, £475, from Beige Habilleur
Rocky Mountain vest, £475, from Beige Habilleur

Beige Habilleur, Paris
This bijou boutique, founded in 2015 by Basile Khadiry and Jean-Baptiste Ménétrier, is in the south-western corner of Paris. Its buy is informed by its owners’ interest in French Ivy style and a “buy less, buy better” philosophy – with products curated from all over the world. From Japanese sunglasses to Irish knitwear, this is a place to discover beautifully made investment pieces. AC 83 Rue Chardon-Lagache, 75016; beige-habilleur.com

Liverano & Liverano, Florence
Few ateliers are as special as that of Florence’s master tailor, 83-year-old living legend Antonio Liverano. He’s widely recognised as one of the world’s great bespoke craftsmen, and his palatial store in the centre of the city reflects his immaculate taste. A warren of workrooms, fitting rooms and tall oak-lined chambers packed with bolts of vintage fabric, this shop is as charming as it is impressive. AC Via dei Fossi 43, 50123; liverano.com

The Armoury
The Armoury

The Armoury, Hong Kong
The guys behind The Armoury struck gold when they opened their flagship store in central Hong Kong. They are modern men’s outfitters, covering all the bases with an eye on European and Japanese craft – from soft Neapolitan tailoring by Orazio Luciano to a classic tuxedo made in collaboration with Osaka’s Ring Jacket. The service is fantastic and personalised, whether you’re looking for a Jean Rousseau watch strap or a made-to-measure suit. Mark C O’Flaherty 307 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central; thearmoury.com

Husbands
Husbands © Leigh Hatwell

Husbands, Paris
This is no ordinary tailor’s shop. The brand’s founder Nicolas Gabard views the suit as a cultural artefact and believes in the power of tailoring to improve a man’s mood, self-esteem and philosophy on life. The store is small but perfectly formed, with a wall of floor-length mirrors on one side and rails packed with tailored jackets on the other. Expect suits cut with a subtle nod to the ’70s, plus service that is equal parts attentive and gracious. AC 57 Rue de Richelieu, 75002; husbands-paris.com

FOR CASUAL WEAR

Clutch Cafe
Clutch Cafe

Clutch Cafe, London
This emporium is a shrine to Japanese designers’ love of midcentury American style. The two-storey shop and café imports menswear from vintage-inspired western jackets to horsehide bombers and Cuban-collar shirts. Cult brands such as Stevenson Overall, Buzz Rickson’s and Full Count jeans top the bill. The coffee’s good as well. AC 78 Great Portland Street, W1; clutch-cafe.com

Broadway & Sons
Broadway & Sons

Broadway & Sons Gothenburg
This capacious store in Sweden’s second city is a haven for vintage menswear. It’s also a good old-fashioned family business. It was founded in 1982 by David Asseraf, who today runs it with his two sons Nathaniel and Noam. This trio scour the globe in search of clothing curiosities and dead-stock military surplus. If you’re looking for a vintage piece that’s rare or hard to come by, chances are you’ll find it here. AC Korsgatan 7, 411 16; broadwayandsons.com

Nigel Cabourn
Nigel Cabourn

Nigel Cabourn, London
The Covent Garden outpost is every bit as fascinating as the designer’s clothes. The interior utilises his “Army Gym” concept, contrasting British military memorabilia with contemporary designs. From parkas inspired by second-world-war originals to shorts and jackets made from deadstock military canvas, this is a haven for lovers of reassuringly robust menswear. AC 28 Henrietta Street, WC2; cabourn.com

Laboratory/Berberjin, Tokyo
Japan is one of the best places for vintage menswear, and BerBerJin is one of the top-rated spots in Tokyo. The Harajuku boutique’s near-obsessiveness comes across in the iconic pieces displayed on the walls, but also in the careful arrangement of everything else, such as denim organised and labelled by waist, leg length and model. SC 3-26-11 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, 150-0001; berberjin.com

FOR HIGH FASHION

18Montrose
18Montrose © Luke Dyson

18Montrose, London
This is the London home to cult labels such as Ten C, And Wander and Stone Island Shadow Project, and menswear enthusiasts make pilgrimages to the striking space in King’s Cross. The young staff have in-depth knowledge of the brands they carry – including Vetements, CP Company, Moncler and Barena – and are very glad to share. TS 6-8 Stable Street, London N1; 18montrose.com

Leclaireur
Leclaireur

Leclaireur, Paris
There are now four of these concept stores (three in Paris and another in Los Angeles) but the Rue Hérold branch has the most rarefied menswear labels. The façade sets the tone: there’s no indication that there’s a shop here. Inside, Jun Takahashi’s avant-garde-meets-utilitarian Undercover collection sits next to artfully weathered boots from Guidi and the esoteric anti-establishment craft of Paul Harnden and Carol Christian Poell. MCO 10 Rue Hérold, 75001; leclaireur.com

Maison Margiela Logo ring, £235, and Numbers cuff bracelet, £350, from Hervia Bazaar
Maison Margiela Logo ring, £235, and Numbers cuff bracelet, £350, from Hervia Bazaar
Hervia Bazaar
Hervia Bazaar

Hervia Bazaar, Manchester
Founder Oscar Pinto-Hervia is a retail visionary. He stocked Alexander McQueen’s seminal Dante collection in 1996, ran a chain of Vivienne Westwood’s stores and looks after Y-3 in London. The latter is core product at his Manchester boutique, along with Rick Owens, Thom Browne and Yohji Yamamoto Homme. The vibe is luxury athleisure, punctuated with colourful fashion-forward accessories. MCO 40 Spring Gardens, M2 1EN; hervia.com

If, New York
A loyal clientele visit this boutique early in the season for limited-edition artisanal menswear by Elena Dawson from the UK and Archivio JM Ribot from Italy. Many of the products in this Manhattan store, which launched in 1978, come from designers who refuse to sell anything online – they believe you have to see and touch the handcraft. The current store, which opened in the early ’90s, is in a classic SoHo loft building, with an open-plan industrial atmosphere and staff who are real New York characters. MCO 94 Grand Street, NY 10013; ifsohonewyork.com

FOR ACCESSORIES

Skoaktiebolaget
Skoaktiebolaget © Milad Abedi

Skoaktiebolaget, Stockholm
Perhaps the Swedish capital’s finest men’s shoe store, with incredibly knowledgeable staff, Skoaktiebolaget is renowned among footwear connoisseurs the world over. Happily shortened to “Skoak”, the name can be translated as “Shoe Incorporated” and sells models from Enzo Bonafé and Paolo Scafora, as well as Saint Crispin’s, John Lobb and others. There is also a well-considered house line called Löf & Tung. SC Nybrogatan 23, 114 39; skoaktiebolaget.com

Stefano Bemer atelier
Stefano Bemer atelier

Stefano Bemer, Florence
This is a true destination store: somewhere worth visiting as an experience alone. The shoemaker is housed in an old church on the south side of the Arno, and has a shop, workshop, school and tailoring space within the three floors. Most of the shoes are entirely hand-sewn, including the top-end bespoke service. SC Via di San Niccolò 2; stefanobemer.com

E.Marinella, Naples
Few shops are more famous for their opening hours than their products. But E.Marinella, the tie store in Naples, is renowned for the fact the owner, Maurizio, opens early every day himself, welcoming in friends for a coffee as much as to buy neckwear. It’s a tiny space, stocked full of the distinctive woven ties packaged in plastic sheaths and card. And those ties have graced the necks of most of Europe’s male politicians, as well as a fair mix of royalty – so you’re in good company. SC Riviera di Chiaia 287, 80122; emarinella.com

Optimo Montecristi fedora, $995
Optimo Montecristi fedora, $995

Optimo, Chicago
By its own claim, as well as those of others, Optimo makes the best hats in the world. These are brimmed styles, panamas and fedoras, crafted from the finest felt and straw. They’re all made in the Optimo factory, in another part of Chicago, which has won awards for its design as well as its quality – not something many factories can say. The Optimo shop downtown is a dark, quiet haven, dominated by the long bar across which customers can request hats to be handed. This is a personal service: nothing is self-serve. SC 51 W Jackson Boulevard, IL 60604; optimo.com

Get alerts on Menswear when a new story is published

Copyright The Financial Times Limited 2020. All rights reserved.
Reuse this content (opens in new window)

Comments have not been enabled for this article.

Follow the topics in this article